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As soon as Nick, my sure-footed son, crested the rocky summit of Goldilocks — the signature day hike at Fernie’s renowned Island Lake Lodge — he froze in fear. Clearly something wasn’t right. I slowly inched up behind him, a wave of trepidation washing over me. What was it? A bear? A fallen hiker? Sasquatch? None of the above. A majestic mountain goat, pure white, with two jet-black horns protruding from its head, was staring him down just a couple of metres away. 

“We need to get out of his way,” I whispered to Nick, my eyes fixated on the large animal that stood motionless, and so close we could almost touch him. “He’s got the right of way.” We slowly shuffled off the trail, away from the beautiful beast, and gave him space. He (or she, all mountain goats have black horns so it’s difficult to tell) seemed to appreciate the gesture. When we were a reasonable distance away, I took out my camera and snapped a few close-up images of this spectacular animal; keepsakes I’ll have for decades to come of our memorable encounter.   

Truth be told, I’ve banked plenty of memorable moments in Fernie. In the fall, especially, it’s gold. And I mean that both literally and metaphorically. Hiking, mountain biking, and golfing (my three faves) are “foundations” in Fernie. And in fall you can do all of them under a rich canopy of gilded aspens and hillsides burning with, literally, every chromatic colour in nature’s spectrum. 

For Calgarians, Fernie is easy to get to. Just two-and-a-half hours through classic Alberta ranchland and spectacular peaks and rockslides (I’m always mesmerized by the sheer size of Frank Slide, the historic 1903 disaster and the deadliest landslide in Canadian history), and coal-mining remnants of the Crowsnest Pass. So, yes, to me the drive to Fernie is always a welcome part of the adventure. 

Given the fact that the mountain biking scene in Fernie is, arguably, the GOAT in the Kootenay Rockies (notice how I tied that in there), I never leave home without my trusty trail bike. From downtown Fernie, you’ve got sprawling and scenic networks to ride on every side of town. My favourite ride is the intermediate loop in the Ridgemont area that incorporates Kiddy Up, Queen V, Eco-Terrorist, Eric’s Trail, Roxy Roller, and Space Unicorn. I know, it sounds like a wild-and-crazy all-day ordeal, but trust me, if you’re an intermediate rider or better, it’s a spectacular little spin that you can do in just over an hour. To me, the highlight is the corkscrew feature on Space Unicorn. It always puts a smile on my face. 

On my latest trip, I also rode Lazy Lizard, another personal favourite that descends from Island Lake Lodge to Mount Fernie Provincial Park. It’s a phenomenal ride rated green, but expect some punchy climbs and tricky downhill sections that swerve through old-growth forest and incorporate bridges, berms, rocky and rooty sections, and plenty of exceptional views. 

For views — and one of the best mountain golf experiences in the Kootenays — the Fernie Golf Club is about as good as it gets. However, unlike some other golf courses in the mountains, the terrain at Fernie is not extreme. It’s a rare walkable golf course in the mountains that’s peppered with picture-perfect holes. 

You’ll never have a shortage of photo-ops on the area’s hiking trails as well! While you definitely need to be in the “advanced” class to take on the epic Heiko’s Trail, there are plenty of trails for every level of experience. (Heiko’s Trail, or the Mountain Lakes Trail, is my favourite hike of all time. It’s a 17.9-km beast that incorporates caves, waterfalls, jaw-dropping views, and alpine meadows coated with wildflowers. Many people, myself included, do it in two days and spend one night tenting high in the alpine. Do your homework if you take it on!) 

Unquestionably, the hiking opportunities up at Island Lake Lodge (Heiko’s Trail actually ends at Island Lake Lodge) are tough to top. The lake itself is peaceful and perfect. And, of course, Island Lake Lodge is about as idyllic and awesome as mountain lodges get. (Disclosure: I was given a special media rate for my recent two-night stay.) From the incredible food to the cozy, fire-warmed lodges, Island Lake Lodge is also my GOAT when it comes to a classic Canadian wilderness lodge experience. 

While the hike up to Spineback is an exceptional half-day excursion to a rocky, wind-blasted ridge garnished with a gothic-looking snag, the difficult two-km extension around the Goldilocks loop is absolutely breathtaking. Especially when you encounter a real goat.